Kayaking Wild Sardinia

Explore the historic center of this town that dates back to the Carthaginians and was a significant port in Roman times. After a trip orientation over a glass of the region’s excellent Vermentino white wine, we’ll go out for our first dinner of classic Sardinia cuisine.

Departing early, we drive by van through an ever-steepening pastoral landscape toward the Supramonte Mountains. Passing through scenic Oliena, we’ll stop for an espresso before carrying on to our kayak launch site at Cala Conone on the Gulf of Orosei. The gulf is a stunningly beautiful arc of clear turquoise blue that abuts the steep land mass of the Supramonte. We’ll plunge into the singular experience of kayaking in Sardinia and spend the balance of the day exploring beaches, sea caves, and grottos only accessible from the sea. Tonight we’ll have a wonderful farm-to-table dinner at an agriturismo. We’ll have entered a distinctively different wine-growing region and we’ll sample some of the local Cannonau, a robust red wine.

After breakfast we’ll meet our local guides for a Land Rover ride into the heart of the Supramonte. The Supramonte was once the haunt and hideout of infamous Sardinian bandits. We’ll enjoy a guided hike and rustic lunch of local cheese, meat and bread in the splendor of the mountains. On the way back to the agriturismo we’ll visit a small production winery (or maybe two).

Today we cross the heart of Sardinia, passing through an ever changing landscape and stop at one of the most impressive Bronze Age Nuragic sites. The number (over 6000) and complexity of the Nuragic sites points to a distant past when Sardinia was a significant place in the ancient world. We rejoin the Mediterranean at Bosa, a colorful town built on a hillside topped by a Spanish castle. Here we'll launch our kayaks and paddle the River Temo through town and on to the seashore for a picnic lunch.  Following the coast road, we reach the town of Alghero whose residents still speak Catalan as the result of several hundred years of Spanish colonization. After touring this attractive seaside town, we’ll move to our agriturismo for the evening.

Up early for a paddle to Capo Caccia. After launching at a small cove, the approach paddle to this imposing limestone headland is marked by a distinctive Genoese tower that predates the Aragonese (Spanish) colonization. In the morning sun, the nearly 600-foot high cliffs of the cape glow with golden light. Conditions permitting, we’ll kayak to the sea mouth of Neptune’s Grotto, a limestone cave that extends for 2 ½ miles. Dinner is a classic Sardinian farm-style dinner at our agriturismo.

Journeying northward along the coast, we’ll be treated with vistas of blue water, pastoral hills, and ancient ruins. We’ll stop and explore the medieval town of Castelsardo. Built on a headland, the castle dates back to 1102 AD. Further along, we arrive at a hilltop overlook of Punta Sardegna, from which we’ll have a sweeping view La Maddalena National Park archipelago. Even from a distance, it’s clear to see why this area is regarded as offering the best kayaking in the Mediterranean. We’ll launch at the town Palau and paddle a coastline adorned by whimsically fantastic rock formations to Capo D'orso. A short ferry ride takes us to the town of La Maddalena, our base for the next two days. 

With crystal clear water, remarkable rock formations, and white sand beaches, Isola Caprera epitomizes the best of Sardinian kayaking destinations. Strategically significant for centuries, the island is dotted with fortresses – some ancient and some more recent. Returning to town, there is time to relax before heading out to dinner at one of La Maddalena’s fine restaurants.

Today we’ll kayak the northwest coast of Isola Maddalena, stopping to swim at small beaches. Taking a short hike, we’ll have a view of the coastline, smaller islands of the archipelago, and the mountains of Corsica visible in the distance across the Bonifacio Strait. Wrapping up another great paddling day, we’ll return to the comfort of our B&B in La Maddalena’s historic center before dinner out.

In the morning, we’ll take the ferry from La Maddalena to Palau then drive down the famous Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) on our way back to Olbia in time to catch afternoon flights.